Upper Muley Twist Trail

Not for Cruise America RV’s, casual park goers, or acrophobes.

Trail description

Starting at the 2WD trailhead, continue by foot (or vehicle) into the bottom of the wash. Turn left and head upcanyon for 2.5 miles.

You quickly fall under the enchantment of the sandstone walls, even if you’re not a geology guru or rock hound. Wingate, Kayenta, and Navajo layers — each splendid in its own right — form a trio known as the Glen Canyon Group, the classic sequence of the Colorado Plateau’s canyon country. In one sweep of the landscape you see a variety of colors and forms: red and white, pockets and swirls, domes and arches.

For the entire hike you parallel these rock layers, which form the backbone of the Waterpocket Fold. The billowy Wingate to your left, the imposing Navajo Sandstone ridge to your right, and the Kayenta sandwiched in between. This fold, or monocline, stretches nearly 100 miles north to south, from Thousand Lake Mountain to the Colorado River.

Look for natural arches in the canyon walls throughout the hike. Peekaboo Arch is visible from the trailhead, an asymmetric window on your right. Around 2 miles, you see two more arches carved out of the Wingate expanse on your left.

Metal stakes that say “No Motor Vehicles” block an adjoining drainage, and the trail stays in the main wash curving right. Shortly thereafter, you reach the 4WD parking area. A short trail leads a quarter mile east to the Strike Valley Overlook for panoramic views. If you’re hiking the whole trail, you can skip the overlook trail knowing that the views from the rim route will be equally if not more breathtaking.

Upcanyon from the 4WD trailhead

Keep your eyes on the left canyon wall for more arches hidden in the Wingate. Throughout the next 2 miles, the walls narrow and offer hikers an intimate backdrop of alcoves. Around 4.25 miles, you arrive at a nondescript trail junction — a wooden post on the right marks the rim route that climbs to the top of the Navajo Sandstone ridge. You will be returning via this route, so ignore the sign and continue hiking upcanyon along the wash bottom. Saddle Arch is on the left; the wash becomes more rugged from here on, with muddy pools below rocky drops.

Around 6.1 miles, you will need to squeeze around and climb past large boulders. A half mile farther, you’ll find another arch with a slot canyon behind it.

Watch for a cairned route leading up the right canyon wall around 6.8 miles. This bypasses the narrows and is a steep route that involves some exposure. Be especially attentive to the trail and your footing during this stretch of the hike. You begin to switchback up the canyon wall in a half mile to the top of the ledge where the narrows section ends. Walk along the flat wash before your final ascent to the rim.

A sign points to the right towards a crack in the Navajo Sandstone around 8 miles, which is your route to the top. Crest the rim in the next quarter mile, arriving at another wooden sign marking the passage back down to the canyon floor for those hiking the loop in reverse.

Return along the Rim Route

Views from the rim are vast and extraordinary. To the east, a rainbow of pastel colors darts up in chevrons, and fluted grey cliffs of Mancos Shale lead up the Henry Mountains. This area is called Grand Gulch, not to be confused with the canyon of the same name in Cedar Mesa, Utah.

The Navajo Sandstone rim puts you at the heart of the Waterpocket Fold, the essence of Capitol Reef National Park. Hiking along the rim involves a game of connect the cairns — follow the inconspicuous rock piles that zigzag across the width of the rim. The trail undulates between saddles, and the slickrock slopes can be quite steep. Channel your inner spider grip.

You won’t be ready to leave your panoramic perch on the rim, but a sign around 11.2 miles points back down to the canyon route. At this point the rim has widened and flattened out, and the trail curves right. Piñons, blackbrush, and buffalo berry bushes become more numerous as you near the crack in the rim that you’ll descend. The route down is steep, falling 500 feet to the canyon floor.

From here, return downcanyon to whichever trailhead you started from. The 4WD and 2WD trailheads are another 1.5 or 4 miles, respectively.

Directions

2WD trailhead: From the park visitor center in Fruita, drive 9 miles east on UT 24 to the junction with Notom Road. Reset your odometer and turn right, continuing south towards the Burr Trail junction. At 18.8 miles, you cross a cattle guard and re-enter the park. Pass Cedar Mesa Campground, a primitive camping area, on your right. At about 32 miles, turn right on the Burr Trail following signs toward Boulder and Escalante. Drive up the steep, scenic switchbacks that climb through a break in the Navajo Sandstone, and arrive at the road leading into Upper Muley Twist Canyon just past 35 miles. Turn right on this dirt road, continuing another half mile to the 2WD trailhead.

High clearance and 4WD vehicles: Follow the directions above, but continue down the wash for another 2.5 miles to the 4WD trailhead, if conditions allow. Capitol Reef experiences frequent flash floods in the summer, and the 4WD trailhead is at the bottom of a wash. Drive in there and hike only if the weather is clear, as the trail traverses narrow canyon walls and exposed slickrock slopes.